Fitting out the Parrot Cage
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    Fitting out the Cage

No parrot should be confined to live in a cage that has a depth measurement less than twice
the parrot’s full wingspan (measured from the tip of its left wing across the body to the tip of
its right wing), and a width that is about equal to three times its wingspan. As a rough guide
to an acceptable minimum, the bird should be able to flap its wings without the tips touching
the wire at either the front or back of its cage.

Cages that are tall and narrow appeal to people with space problems but they usually offer a
less healthy environment to the bird that has to live in it.

If space is such a problem that they cannot provide a cage with the dimensions
recommended above, then perhaps they should consider getting a hamster instead.

Accessories

You will often have to replace the perches and feeding bowls that are supplied with the cage
with ones that are safer or otherwise more suitable for the particular type of parrot that you
choose.

If you use metal containers, be sure that they do not contain harmful metals which could be
leached out by acidic foods or juices. Stainless steel is best.

Cover for Your Cage

It’s a good idea to have a cover made of quality material with no loose threads for your bird’s
cage. Small parrots are particularly at risk of becoming entangled in threads. If even one
thread worked loose over time, it could cause serious, even life-threatening injuries to your
bird.

The cover should be large enough to cover the whole cage at night. It’s important to ensure
that there is some space at the bottom of the cage between the cage and the cover so there
is some air circulation and also to provide some light if your parrot is of a variety, like peach-
faces, that forage at night.

Fold up the cover during the daytime, or replaced it with a shorter cover then so the bird can
be active, but still has a darker, more private area that is can retreat to, if it is tired or
frightened.

Wire Hazards

Make sure that the wire uprights and cross-pieces are firmly fixed, sufficiently strong to
withstand the repeated attentions of the particular type of parrot that you own.

Even small parrots can, over time, create considerable damage to cheap “bargain” cages”.
Large parrots are extremely strong.

The uprights should be spaced closely together, sufficient to discourage the parrot from
trying to push its head or a leg between the bars. This sort of action would likely lead to
serious injury.

You must inspect all parts of the cage, but especially all the wire, regularly to ensure that it
has not deteriorated to where it is a potential escape route or dangerous to the bird.

Carefully check that the ends of all wires used in the cage have no exposed points. Even if
the end of the wire is blunt, it may cause serious injury if the bird comes into contact with is,
especially if the bird is small and moving fast.

All wire on the cage should be zinc-free (electroplated). Otherwise, it should be soaked in
white vinegar, have all loose bits removed with a wire brush and then be exposed to
weather for at least a month before being used in your bird cage.

This treatment will not remove the threat of all the zinc that may be present in the wire, but
it could reduce the possibility of serious effects on your parrot.

Paint

You would expect that cage manufacturers would use only lead-free paints but it’s wise to
check this when you buy the cage. If you are not sure, you might buy a different cage
because removing suspect paint from a cage would be time-consuming and messy. It could
also require the use of chemicals that might leave other potentially dangerous residues.

Zinc and lead are poisonous to birds and there is no safe level of exposure because the
metals can build up in the bird to a point where it eventually becomes a serious problem.

All wood in the cage should be untreated, natural timber.

Be careful that you do not use any wood that is from a type of tree that might be poisonous
to your parrot.

Also, check the history of all wood that you use to ensure, as far as possible, that it has not
been sprayed with any dangerous garden chemicals for at least, say, three years. Many
sprays still may contain poisons that can accumulate in the tree and cause problems for your
bird when it chews its perches or other woodwork in the cage.

You should scrape dried droppings etc off the perches every couple of days or you risk flakes
becoming loose airborne particles that could infect the bird and also members of your family
or visitors seriously.

You will need extra wood to replace your perches every so often, because most parrots will
chew them and they will all become discoloured because of the droppings even if you clean
them regularly.

Letting them chew the perch through their droppings would invite health problems in short
order and removing the residue back to the wood is time-consuming and messy.

Each perch needs to be of a size where the bird’s claws reach from half to three-quarters of
the way around it.

If the bird’s foot does not reach at least half-way round the perch, it is very likely to fall and
the risk of injury is high. If their claws extend right around the perch and even overlap, the
legs are put under too much pressure and at great risk.

I’ve used branches from a neighbor’s uprooted cherry tree as perches for my birds.

I knew for a fact that she had not sprayed the tree for four years and she was even able to
tell me the two sprays that she used that year! Both were only toxic on insects.

I would have been more cautious if the branches were from, say, a commercial orchard or
from someone whose use of sprays I did not know.

Cage Doors.

Doors that drop down like a draw-bridge or swing aside like the other doors in your home
are regarded as much safer for modern bird cages but most are still supplied with doors that
you slide up and down.

It is inevitable that parrots will test every moveable part on the cage and doors will get
special attention because they’ll see moving it up and down.

Your bird could be seriously injured if it tried to get out and became caught under the door of
the cage.

You don’t want your parrot to get out of the cage unless you are there and able to supervise
it, so you should ensure that the doors on the cage are fastened securely at all other times
in a way to will keep the parrot in and does not have any potential for causing it harm if it
tries to get out.

Make Cleaning Easier.

There needs to be a wire grill above the solid floor of the cage with a sliding tray between
them to catch droppings, seed husks and anything else that drops down.

If you use a cage that only has a solid floor, then droppings and other waste will accumulate
and the bird will wade through it before you get time to remove it.

This is an open invitation to more health problems.

Cover the tray with a piece of blank newsprint or paper towels and change them every day
to minimize any chance of infection or other problems.

Scrape the bottom and disinfect it each week. Do an extra clean at any time when there has
been any spillage from the food or water containers.

Clean the containers as often as necessary but at least weekly, with a weak bleach solution.
Do this in another room away from the bird and dry everything very thoroughly before
returning them to the cage or the bird may be badly affected by fumes or any damp residue.
 
 
DO you like what you have just read?  The above is an extract from the ebook Your Pet Parrot.
 
    Thinking About a Parrot For a Pet?

Thinking About a Parrot For a Pet? Chances are pretty good that you have seen a parrot on
television and fell in love with these intelligent members of the avian family.  You may even
have friends or family who own a parrot or two.

Regardless of your previous experience it’s important to make an intelligent and informed
decision about adopting one of these wonderful feathered friends.

If you have other pets and/or children, then you need to be doubly aware of just how
challenging an adoption like this can become.

The place to go for informed answers is not to the person you are buying from.  There are
many reputable dealers out there but for every reputable one there are two frauds.

You need to prepare yourself BEFORE you get to the “buying” stage.  What are some of the
questions you need to ask a potential seller?  Here are just a few:

  • How to use free research techniques to create customer focus

  • How wild are these birds?

  • What is the bird’s age?

  • Where did this bird come from?

  • Beware of money-hungry breeders!

Why do you want to purchase a parrot?  This is not a trick question.  Everyone has different
needs and desires but when it comes to inviting an exotic creature such as a parrot into your
home you had best know your motive.

    Other Parrot Points to Ponder

Who will care for your parrot?  Do you know what is entailed in the everyday care and
feeding of a parrot?  What else is there to think about?  Let’s take a look:

  • Is there an experienced bird veterinarian in your area?

  • How much does the vet charge?

  • Should you buy pet insurance?

  • What kind of cage do you need?

  • What about your other pets?

  • What to feed your parrot.

Hmmm, it looks like there are many more questions than answers, doesn’t it?  This is true.  
So how do you go about preparing for the potential purchase of a parrot?

Just like any other journey, you need to find answers to all your questions.  Buying a parrot
as a pet is an expensive proposition.

It’s one you should not take lightly.

We have the exact tool for you to read.  “You and Your Parrot” is just what you need to
answer all these questions and many more that you haven’t even thought of!

Written by a long-term parrot owner, Maureen Pace shares her hands on experience in
simple terms.  Her passion for her parrots is evident as she shares her stories and underpins
this primer with her candid reflections, especially on the “do’s and don’ts.”

The chapter on training is most helpful and a definite must-have for anyone considering a
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Grab a copy of “You and Your Parrot” BEFORE you buy and with Maureen’s help you, too, will
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Proudly brought to you by Jacob Gan, PhD (Michigan)